A few weeks ago (can time slow down a little please) I managed to get a last minute appointment with the reknowned Brian Warfield, one of the few people I trust with my curls. I met Brian mid 2014 for a colour treatement at the salon he was working at (see previous post here). He is now located at Tanaz Hair on 51 Corlett Drive in Joburg (http://www.tanaz.net/).
Trimming should be part of every curly girls hair regimen. Why? Think about it...as your hair grows, the hair at the base of your scalp eventually becomes your ends. How you handle and care for your hair and scalp between that time can determine the condition of those ends. Ends are the most prone to damage and damaged hair cannot repair itself. (yes, ultimately all these products we use are but temporary fixes). Also the ends are the most in need of care part of the hair strand. They also loose the most moisture especially for colour treated hair. Always feel along the length of the strand for ruggedness and damage and check for split ends. Split ends do not just disappear they can continue down the shaft/length of the strand therefore it is best to cut them off.
Since damaged hair does not disappear and can get worse, one either lets it break off or removes it. Deciding when to trim should be an individual decision - depends on the health of the hair and care that is given throughout the growth process. Recognising damage and dealing with it early is better than just leaving it as it may lead to eventually cutting more than you would want to or a very Big Trim and even a Big Cut just to start afresh. (I have heat damage that I am still dealing and trimming certainly helps rather than cutting is all off). As mentioned knowing one's hair is key - in getting to know your hair, you will know when to trim. Trimming can also entail 'dusting' when one lightly trims the very ends of the hair - tiny little bits.
Another thing to note is that there are various schools of thought on trimming curls. Should one trim wet or damp curls or dry curls or straighten the curls and trim dry (often preferred as the proper length of the hair is visible when straight and there is less room for errors and uneven shaping), straight across or angled trimming (it is advised that curlies should request or cut straight across as the angled way of cutting can lead to split ends and breakage later). The Curl Doctor, Shai Amiel based in the States, trims/cuts curls individually and when dry - such patience - who thought that trimming could be complicated and yet simple.
I went with the damp curls method (ever since my heat damage I have been anti-heat). Since I had been putting my trim off forever - sadly - Brian could see that quite abit had to come off and cut quite a bit, he did. He trimmed of about 8-10cm more or less. I therefore called it the Big Trim. I didn't have split ends but more of rough frizzy and thinning ends. I loved that Brian didn't just trim but he actually shaped it and actually kept it in the frame that I liked and that I think its grows in - longer side and shorter back. Having it shorter in the back is a real bonus as those ends can snag on clothing etc and become more tangled than any other part of the head.
Brian started by giving my tresses a lovely wash, condition and massage and even treatment. We used Philip Kingsley products. l had a good inward laugh as the ladies who wash hair for all the stylists kept asking him if he was okay and needed them to wash for him and he was like no, all is fine, I enjoyed my 5 star treatment. I paid R220 for the trim including the wash etc. which I found to be fair considering that Tanaz is a high end salon and Brian a Head Stylist.
The benefits of trimming - especially big trimming:
As always, listen to your hair.
Trimming should be part of every curly girls hair regimen. Why? Think about it...as your hair grows, the hair at the base of your scalp eventually becomes your ends. How you handle and care for your hair and scalp between that time can determine the condition of those ends. Ends are the most prone to damage and damaged hair cannot repair itself. (yes, ultimately all these products we use are but temporary fixes). Also the ends are the most in need of care part of the hair strand. They also loose the most moisture especially for colour treated hair. Always feel along the length of the strand for ruggedness and damage and check for split ends. Split ends do not just disappear they can continue down the shaft/length of the strand therefore it is best to cut them off.
Since damaged hair does not disappear and can get worse, one either lets it break off or removes it. Deciding when to trim should be an individual decision - depends on the health of the hair and care that is given throughout the growth process. Recognising damage and dealing with it early is better than just leaving it as it may lead to eventually cutting more than you would want to or a very Big Trim and even a Big Cut just to start afresh. (I have heat damage that I am still dealing and trimming certainly helps rather than cutting is all off). As mentioned knowing one's hair is key - in getting to know your hair, you will know when to trim. Trimming can also entail 'dusting' when one lightly trims the very ends of the hair - tiny little bits.
Another thing to note is that there are various schools of thought on trimming curls. Should one trim wet or damp curls or dry curls or straighten the curls and trim dry (often preferred as the proper length of the hair is visible when straight and there is less room for errors and uneven shaping), straight across or angled trimming (it is advised that curlies should request or cut straight across as the angled way of cutting can lead to split ends and breakage later). The Curl Doctor, Shai Amiel based in the States, trims/cuts curls individually and when dry - such patience - who thought that trimming could be complicated and yet simple.
I went with the damp curls method (ever since my heat damage I have been anti-heat). Since I had been putting my trim off forever - sadly - Brian could see that quite abit had to come off and cut quite a bit, he did. He trimmed of about 8-10cm more or less. I therefore called it the Big Trim. I didn't have split ends but more of rough frizzy and thinning ends. I loved that Brian didn't just trim but he actually shaped it and actually kept it in the frame that I liked and that I think its grows in - longer side and shorter back. Having it shorter in the back is a real bonus as those ends can snag on clothing etc and become more tangled than any other part of the head.
Brian started by giving my tresses a lovely wash, condition and massage and even treatment. We used Philip Kingsley products. l had a good inward laugh as the ladies who wash hair for all the stylists kept asking him if he was okay and needed them to wash for him and he was like no, all is fine, I enjoyed my 5 star treatment. I paid R220 for the trim including the wash etc. which I found to be fair considering that Tanaz is a high end salon and Brian a Head Stylist.
The benefits of trimming - especially big trimming:
- Easier detangling - the damaged ends no longer make detangling difficult - in fact there are less tangles
- Hair is no longer weighed down - my fro has more bounce and volume and shape
- Less strands on the comb after detangling - less breakage if any at all
- More volume - since my hair now has more shape I love the fro that it is
- Having my previous fro had me feeling easily hot and bothered especially with the hot summer days but after the trim I don't feel so hot and bothered any more - like the scalp 'can breath'.
- Easier to maintain - this length is just easier to maintain than the previous longer length - yes the BT made such as difference.
As always, listen to your hair.
He is amazing. I used to go to him. Didn't know he was back.
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